Sumatra FTO Takengon coffee gets produced on farms owned by families but organized within the Koperasi Kopi Gayo Organic or KGGO cooperative, which is situated in the famous Takengon highlands found in the Aceh province of the Indonesian island known as Sumatra.
This part of Indonesia also gets called the Gayo land since the coffee farmers are members of the Gayonese ethnicity.
A relatively high percentage of the farmers, often from very remote villages in the Takengon highlands, happen to be widows who lost husbands in times of conflict in Aceh. Many of these families are still rebuilding following an earthquake that occurred in 2013.
Retro Mandheling has had many iterations, and is definitely in its Third Wave, as the classic profile has had traceability improvements. The KKGO cooperative is a longtime supplier to us, and they provided a harvest from a particular micro-region known as Lokop Sabun.
Past this, trees are nearly exclusively Bergendal Typical heirlooms, a rather infrequently seen strain from the original of Dutch Typical which propagate in Java.
The Sumatran coffee is planted across the country, and at one point, the entire species it was nearly entirely wiped out. Except for a handful of high-elevation survivors that weathered a major rust outbreak of the late 1800s.
Our coffee exhibits quite a few of the characteristics from its predecessors, which includes a rather large screen size. In 2007, we measured it as being 62 percent over screen 19. It current clocks in at 77 percent over 19, making it a big coffee.
This, combined with a mildly above average moisture of 11.8 percent, is what keeps the density of the coffee a little lower than average. The water activity we noted is also a bit higher than the average too.
This coffee proved to be limited in regards to roast-style preferences. PR-613, our second roast, enamored my partner and I. This was something of a ‘big’ coffee that had a lot of juicy notes, and I drank a second cup to enjoy it once more.
Cocoa was, of course, the most consistent note, but syrup berry undertow was a close second, followed by some tartaric and malic acids. We could even say our second roast was floral, and it also seemed to have a sparkly texture, which we rarely see when analyzing Sumatran coffees.
Maybe these various notes shouldn’t be a shock based on the name of the coffee, as ‘sabun’ means ‘soap’ in Bahasa, Indonesia.